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The Extension Terminology Cheat Sheet Part One

Updated: Jun 23, 2019

Holy Guacamole! If you're confused, join the crowd!


Individual, Strand by Strand, Paneling, Tape, Keratin, Knotting, Wefting, Weave, Sew In, Non Sew In, Cold Fusion, Warm Fusion, Skin Wefting, Linking, Beading, Bonding, I-Tip, U-Tip, Micro, Nano, Flat Box Fusion vs. Roll in Fusion Keratin Bonds, Beaded Row... do you know the difference?


Let me ease the learning curve for you, and in hopes to not throw you into the state of overwhelm I’ve broken down each method of hair extensions. You will notice there are several names for the same process. The hair extension industry is a billion dollar business, and companies will creatively use different words in hopes that you will drink the kool-aid and think they are the “inventors” of something new. It’s a genius move but only confusing to the consumer. In the end, it’s all the same, and there are several methods of hair extensions on the market, each attached to different companies and they all have unique pros and cons.

*This is just another reason that attending our two-day mastery class is a game changer!



Fusion Extensions

Alias: Keratin, Individual, Bonded, Hot Fusion, K-Tip, U-Tip, Square Tip, Nail Tip, Kera-Link, Kera-Tip, Flat Box, Micro Bonding, Rolled In, Glued In (eek!)


Fusion Extensions are the most popular extension — a strand-by-strand application using a keratin tip that requires warmth to fuse and bond to the natural hair.


How are they made?

Human hair is either donated or sold. That hair should be collected with the cuticle facing the same direction, which is also known as Remy hair. The majority of hair extensions are not 100% Remy, and it is legal to advertise Remy hair as long as it is only 45%, Remy! A sure sign of low Remy grade hair is knotting and tangling.



The human hair is pressed with synthetic keratin which makes this a "protein on protein" application. This tipped end is shaped in a U, Square, Nail or I-Tip. Often you can see a stamp on the keratin tip which is the brand of extension you are using. It's impossible to know exactly what's in the keratin bond being that they're patented formulas. The quality of keratin is just as important as the quality of hair!




Pro's

Fusion extensions can be customized to each individual's needs. Micro-bonding is a great alternative and is created by cutting each strand into several pieces.

The freedom to be creative and create a natural looking selecting several colors.

No Glue

Minimal maintenance

Free flowing

Undetectable (when applied correctly)


Con's

Can be damaging for guests who don't follow the guidelines or are hard on their hair

Not for those with very fine hair

Can cause Alopecia if the bond is too close to the scalp or not enough hair is attached

Not easy to learn and takes practice to master



Life of the extensions 3-5 months. Large companies will claim 5-6 months. It depends on the density of the natural hair and each persons unique DNA.


Acetone during removal shouldn't be used. 90% of what is on the market is high in acetone. Acetone removes acrylic nails...imagine what it does to your hair?! (the two-day workshop gives you a recipe to create your own Fusion Remover using zero acetone and low alcohol.)


Can they be re-used? If the hair is good quality, you could. Re-tipping, however, will create a more substantial bond and possible shedding. Being that I only want the best for my client, I don't re-tip the hair extensions.


*There are several types of keratin on the market. Italian keratin is most popular. Be leary of trying keratin bonds from companies you don't know. Often you can find polymer bonds with cheap white glue and small amounts of keratin. This will turn white in moisture (shower) and become gummy. Once gummy it will cause damage to the natural hair and is challenging to remove.




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